Well here we are heading to Port August from Wilpena Pound, again a cold morning but with expectation that the temperature will climb to a pleasant level. We travelled through Hawker onto Quorn for morning tea. A very nice cafe serving Devonshire teas using Quondong jam (you guessed it, yummo, that’s for me). Just outside Quorn we entered the Pichi Richi Pass and the fuel light came on – I knew I should have put some fuel in at Quorn. Anyway we motor on towards Port Augusta and reach Stirling North, that will do, and I’ll fuel up here. Main tank full, aux tank full and 2 jerry cans full, $235 later and we are good to go.
At Port Augusta we stayed at Central Augusta Footy Club, $7 a night with water, they averaged 15 vans/motor homes a night. Not a bad little earner for them. We stayed in Port Augusta of 3 nights (we plan to stay longer when we come back from the West), visited the native botanical gardens and Mathew Flinders Lookout (the Red Cliffs). The lookout over looked the top of Spencers Gulf, lots of bird life and dolphins having a good feed.
Onto Woomera for 4 nights, what an interesting place if you like missiles and the like. The park was used to be the senior officers’ compound. There were three barrack buildings reminiscent of the ones I slept in in days gone by and where the caravans were parked there used to be 3 bedroom homes for the married officers, long since demolished. Roxby Downs is about 85ks from Woomera, a green oasis in the middle of dust and dirt . Certainly a company town, I think what BHP says goes. After lunch at the Sports club (certainly not the best steak sandwich we have ever had) we drove out to Andamooka, an old Opal mining town. I believe that they still get a reasonable quantity of quality opals out of the ground. We visited a couple of stores, one was ok the other a little dodgy in appearance. There are some of the original dugouts opened for the public to view – certainly not the mod-con s that we are used to and very rough.
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ANDAMOOKA DUGOUT |
On the way back to Woomera we stopped at the Woomera cemetery, what a sad place. The amount of baby and still born graves was very sad. One can only imagine the causes.
On the Wednesday, the day before we were leaving to head off to Coober Pedy I was reversing the car into its parking spot and clipped a tree with the passenger side mirror frame. Now the mirror frame hooks over the door and the window slides up and down next to it. The frame twisted and the window shattered. Now being in Woomera there are not too many services available, a quick call to Pt Augusta, a window was organised for the following morning and they would install it at 8am. So up at 5.30, move the van because our site was booked and I didn’t know what time I would be back to pick it up. 180ks to the repairer, one and a half hours to kill while they fixed it and 180ks back to Woomera to pick up the van and Gaila and then 365ks to Coober Pedy, it certainly made for a long day, us old retirees don’t like going more than 400ks at a time.
COOBER PEDY
As you drive through the country side you are confronted by this landscape like we had never really encountered before, sure we had been to Andamooka but that did not prepare us for the foreign landscape before us. For miles around there were mullock heaps and generally where there was a mullock heap there was a mineshaft. Once a shaft had been sunk by law you are not allowed to back fill them, you see because a lot of the mine tunnels become interconnected and therefore if there is a collapse in the mine then by back filling the shafts you could very well be sealing off any escape route and then consigning that miner to his or her death.
We took the obligatory tourist trip around town, visiting an underground church (underground buildings stay around 24 degrees c at all times - good in summer when it is approx 50 degrees c), the golf course (different), visit to the mine fields and so on. We also visited an underground home; this home was owned by a lady by the name of Faye Naylor, she purchased this property in 1962 when all it was was an underground garage built in the early ‘20s, she and 3 lady friends in their spare time dug out by hand a three bedroom home. Faye later had a swimming pool built which after a couple of summers had a room built around it to prevent evaporation. Faye had one of the first tourist businesses in Coober Pedy and after some 20 odd years she sold up and moved to Qld where she bought a pub, apparently she has retired and is living a healthy life in Brisbane. I believe that she is about 85 years old.
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FAYE NAYLOR'S LOUNGE ROOM - WHY THE FIRE? |
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THE PAINTED DESERT |
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YOU GUESSED IT - THE PINK ROADHOUSE |
We had planned to take a drive to William Creek and take a flight over Lake Eyre, after speaking to a couple who had done that a day or so earlier and said that the flight they took only went over Lake Eyre North and that there was very little water to be seen that we decided not to take the flight.
I know I said previously that we only like to drive less than 400ks a day, but we headed off on a two day adventure.
We left the van at Coober Pedy and headed for Oodnadatta, the home of The Pink Roadhouse (currently for sale for around $1,000,000). Our drive took us through the Dog Fence, on to The Painted Desert and then to Oodnadatta. The landscape is something to behold, the Moon Plain and the colours of the Painted Desert were magnificent, plenty of photos taken but they do not do it justice. Not only that but we got rain in the desert, just enough to dampen the dust and firm up the road. That day we covered about 240ks on dirt road. We had tea at the Roadhouse, bought a few bits and pieces and hit the rack. The following morning after much discussion it was decided that we head off to William Creek and then on to Lake Eyre South (we were told that you could see the water from the road). Travelling the Oodnadatta Track was a great experience, the road was in really great condition and far better than some of the bitumen roads that we have travelled on since we started our travels. I’m glad that I didn’t have to fill up with fuel at either Oodnadatta or William Creek it was $2.27 and $2.30 respectively, I suppose we will see worse prices in times to come.
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WILLIAM CREEK HOTEL - INTERESTING DECOR |
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LAKE EYRE SOUTH |
We reached Lake Eyre and it was a spectacular sight, the water was about 500mts from the lookout so I can just imagine the sight of it in full flood. Travelling the Track was amazing, we saw everything from a bloke on a pushbike, numerous 4WD with and without caravans and campers, a full size tourist bus, a few campervans and motor homes to half a dozen semi trailers, so as you can see it is a very popular road to travel. Gaila and I would really love to see more of this road, not this time but maybe in a couple of years we will do all of it and link into the Birdsville Track.
Today (Wednesday) we went out to an area called The Breakaways, (for all of you Priscilla Queen of the Desert tragics, some of it was filmed here) again magnificent scenery, similar to the Painted Desert, my photos just don’t do it justice.
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THE BREAKAWAYS |
An interesting thing about Coober Pedy, the water here is some of the best in the country; the locals pay about $5 per kilolitre. It is source from an artesian basin, put through a desalination plant and reverse osmosis filter plant and it is crystal clear, we cannot hook up to water at the van park so I have been filling up two 20ltr jerry cans at the outrageous cost of $0.20c for the lot, small price to pay.
Tomorrow we head off for Ayres Rock, staying two nights on the road, so stay safe and we will catch ya later.